Sam Jones Knows Eastern Carolina BBQ

The chopped pork sandwich is served with slaw on a potato bun. Photo: Sam Jones BBQ.

Any barbecue fan who visits Raleigh, NC, usually asks about Sam Jones BBQ because the owner/pitmaster is so well known in food circles. Jones descends from a family that has prepared whole-hog BBQ the right way — cooked slow over a wood-fueled pit – since grandfather Pete Jones opened a restaurant in 1947 at age 17.

Chopped—not pulled—is the Jones family way. Photo: Sam Jones BBQ.

The grandson of the founder of the legendary Skylight Inn in Ayden, NC, Sam Jones has not fallen far from the family tree, although he has taken his family’s barbecue skills into two other cities — first to Whiteville in 2015 and next to Raleigh in 2021. Even before venturing into these two locations, Jones was named “one of the top pitmasters in the South” by Southern Living magazine back in 2012.

An old auto body shop was transformed into a BBQ destination. Photo: Sam Jones BBQ.

In Raleigh, Jones converted an old auto body shop into a smokehouse and dining room. His team cooks 180-pound hogs in a wood-fired pit for 16 hours every day. The BBQ is seasoned just right, not overly sauced, and chopped (not pulled) with crunchy bits of skin. In addition to chopped pork BBQ, Jones also serves smoked spare ribs, turkey, and chicken.

A traditional Jones family tray of chopped BBQ also comes with a side (here sweet slaw) and cornbread. Photo: Visit Raleigh Insider.

One family tradition that often meets with mixed reviews from first-time customers is the cornbread, which follows the original recipe that dates to 1830 from Skylight Inn. (Some diners skip it and order the sweet potato muffin instead.) Long-term diners consider it an essential part of the full Jones family experience. The cornbread, unsweetened and dense, is made with little more than cornmeal mix and water. A thin slab with crisp edges and a chewy texture, it is a marked contrast to sweeter Southern cornbread that is fluffy or cakey.

The cornbread is unsweetened and dense.

The sides are as good as the BBQ. Sweet slaw, mac ‘n’ cheese, collard greens, and baked beans are popular choices. The best advice is not to leave without trying the banana pudding. Alone, it makes a trip to Sam Jones BBQ worthwhile.

Don't leave without a serving of banana pudding.

A third-generation pitmaster, Jones knows how to serve eastern N.C.-style BBQ. His perfectly smoked, chopped whole hog barbecue continues a time-honored family tradition. chopped pork with slaw on a potato bun.

Sam Jones is a third-generation pitmaster. Photo: Sam Jones BBQ.

Rocky Mount, NC, Recovers From Tornado To Host Barbecue Competition

The Twisted Pair BBQ team earned a perfect score of 180 points for their beef brisket entry. Photo: Twisted Pair BBQ via Facebook. 

Imagine planning to hold a barbecue cookoff on a pleasant fall weekend when an EF3 tornado arrives just days before the competition is to be held. As final planning for the Eastern Carolina BBQ Throwdown was underway, Rocky Mount, NC, received significant damage from a tornado that rolled through the city with winds of 140 mph.

Damaged by a tornado only days earlier, the city of Rocky Mount, NC, recovered to have another successful BBQ cookoff. Photo: Fox Weather.

Tornado In Rocky Mount

The tornado was on the ground in the city for the length of about five football fields. It was associated with the remnants of Hurricane Helene, which had made landfall along Florida’s Big Bend two days earlier as a Category 4. It was the strongest tornado from the hurricane.

High winds associated with the hurricane caused extensive damage in Rocky Mount. Image: Fox Weather.

Barbecue Competition After Tornado

Nevertheless, Rocky Mount overcame the shock from having the tornado, and several days later the city again hosted Eastern Carolina BBQ Throwdown, which has been a superior barbecue competition for many years. I was first a judge in this cookoff in 2017 and have returned several times. It continues to be one of the best events of the year. The huge cheesecake (that has 12 slices) that each judge receives for participating clearly has not prejudiced my view. 

Chicken by Smokin’ Skullies, which was the grand champion at the last event that I judged, scored a perfect 180. Photo: Smokin’ Skullies via Facebook. 

Previously the competition had been held in the Rocky Mount Senior Center. This year brought about a change in the venue. For the first time, judges met in the Rocky Mount Event Center on Main Street. The new location provided more space for the judges as well as the cooking teams, which set up in the parking lot next to the center.

 

Smoke Central BBQ uses Heath Riles Rub for its chicken entry. Is that their secret? Photo: Smoke Central BBQ via Facebook.

Smoke Central BBQ Takes Top Honors

With $18,900 in prize money this year, the cookoff attracted many top times that compete in events sanctioned by the Kansas City Barbeque Society. This year 26 teams competed. The top team was Smoke Central BBQ from Lake City, SC. It also won first place in the chicken and pork ribs categories. In fact, it got a perfect score (180 points) for both entries—a rare achievement.

Smoke Central BBQ took for more than the grand championship honors. Photo: Smoke Central BBQ via Facebook. 

Entertainment At Cookoff

Because the event includes live music, inflatables, food trucks, and other entertainment, it's as popular for the community as the cooking teams and judges. Hopefully Rocky Mount will be spared from any more tornado damage in the future. However, the city will always be ready to host a superior barbecue cookoff.

The Rocky Mount Fire Department was on hand just to make sure that no flameups got out of hand.

Weather Dampens BBQ Enthusiasm in Rocky Mount, NC

The rib entry from Swine 'N' Roses, the grand champion, which placed third in the rib category. Photo: Swine 'n' Roses/Facebook.

Rocky Mount, NC, is known for many things, although barbecue may not be one of them. However, the Eastern Carolina BBQ Throwdown, which is sanctioned by the Kansas City Barbecue Society, has been pushing barbecue to the forefront for several years. I first judged at this event in 2017, returned again in 2018, but had not been able to attend again until this year. 

Judges assemble for the start of their meeting.

Eastern Carolina BBQ Throwdown

For many years it has been a major event for cooking teams as well as judges. This year, however, the weather — steady, hard rain with high winds — significantly dampened everyone’s enthusiasm and kept the usual large crowd of observers away. 

The rainy weather made the contest less enjoyable for the cooking teams..

What had been a popular street scene was barely attended. The cooking teams, nevertheless, rose to the occasion and provided what the judges were looking for: excellent barbecue. 

Entries are ready to be taken to the judges.

Swine 'n' Roses Wins

This year 27 teams competed for the $18,900 in cash prizes. As usual, the contest consisted of the four KCBS categories (chicken, pork ribs, pork, and beef brisket) which are required entries in order to qualify for the Grand Championship, which was won by Swine 'N' Roses BBQ. 

Swine 'n' Roses was not only the grand champion, but they also won trophies for each of the four meat categories plus a trophy for scoring more than 700 points. Photo: Swine 'n' Roses/Facebook.

Prizes are also awarded in individual categories, and an optional category is the People’s Choice. 

The poor weather limited how many voted in the People's Choice contest. 

Although the poor weather reduced how many spectators attended, the event still upheld the best traditions of barbecue competitions. The teams vied for the prizes, and the best one won.

The chicken entry prepared by Swine 'n' Roses, the grand champion. Photo: Swine 'n' Roses/Facebook.

The pork entry prepared by Swine 'n' Roses, the grand champion. Photo: Swine 'n' Roses/Facebook.

The brisket entry prepared by Swine 'n' Roses, the grand champion. Photo: Swine 'n' Roses/Facebook.

Returning to Rocky Mount

The city of Rocky Mount, NC, has developed an excellent reputation for being a wonderful host and excellent organizer of a barbecue cookoff each fall. The entire city seems to participate in the event, known as the Eastern Carolina BBQ Throwdown.

Cooking teams set up near the historic train station in Rocky Mount.

Because this year’s people’s choice contest followed a national pitmaster competition televised on the Food Network two months earlier, it seemed to attract more attention that the one held last year. The line at Prime Barbeque, a contestant on the broadcast program, was the longest of any during the contest.

The line at Prime Barbeque team was always long during the people's choice contest.

As the crowd walked by the teams set up on the grounds of the historic train station, bands played music from the “BBQ Stage” for several hours. This year 39 teams vied for a share in the total prize money of $20,000. The team Muttley Crew, winner of the 2017 cookoff, took home grand champion honors again.

Doug Reid, contest representative, begins the meeting for the judges.

Many judges had participated in this event in previous years, perhaps because the contest is so well-organized. However, a more compelling reason may be the cheesecake that each judge receives at the end of the contest. I’m persuaded — I hope to return again next year.

Cooking teams quietly prepare for the people's choice contest.

Southern Smoke in Garland, NC

Southern Smoke in Garland, NC, is quickly gaining a following. It’s popular not because it is listed on a historic barbecue trail — it’s been in business only eight years — but because its excellent barbecue is smoked in the traditional way over hardwood coals.

By 1:30 p.m., customers are usually no longer standing in line but late arrivals are disappointed if all the barbecue has been sold.

Opened in 2010 by Matthew and Jessica Register, Southern Smoke has brought new life to the small town of Garland, home to fewer than 700 residents, in Sampson County. It is open only two days, Thursdays and Fridays. Business is brisk when the doors open at 11:30 a.m. (and customers start gathering much earlier). When all the barbecue is sold, the lights are turned off until the next business day. Most people “in the know” plan to arrive at least by 12:30 p.m.

Cut oak and a smoker are all that's needed to make customers happy.

When I stopped on a drive from Wilmington, NC, I didn’t arrive until 1:30 p.m. The pile of cut oak wood (next to the famous smoker Jezebel) on the side of Southern Smoke let me know that I had arrived at an authentic barbecue pit. Arriving that late saved me from having to stand in line as is usual for regular customers. Although I was worried that I was too late, I was still in time for barbecue, but the ribs, beans and pies were already sold out. The mac and cheese, which was still available, was a fine complement on the barbecue tray I ordered (with an additional side of coleslaw), but next time I’ll arrive early enough to enjoy some homemade pie. The sweet cornbread, however, made up for the missing pie. 

The hand-chopped barbecue, with two homemade sauces, goes well with sides and cornbread.

Although Southern Smoke cooks only pork shoulders to make its barbecue, the flavor is true to the tradition of eastern North Carolina with a moist, tangy vinegary-pepper taste. Two sauces — Two Brothers (named for the Registers’ sons), a traditional eastern N.C. sauce, and Sweet Grace (named for their daughter), a Memphis-style sauce — are homemade and let you flavor the barbecue to your preferences.

Matthew Register, the pitmaster (right), takes a break from kitchen duties to pose for a photo. 

My wife and I were greeted at the counter by Matthew’s parents, who enjoy their role in serving customers as they arrived. Although Matthew took time for a picture, it was obvious he and others on the staff were busy in the kitchen. Most of the business is takeout, and my wife and I were the only ones to eat on site while we were there.

A large chalkboard lists the menu of the day.

The space inside is too limited for any tables and chairs. Although two picnic tables are out front, we ate in the shaded backyard where the South Supper Series is held. While enjoying our lunch, we looked around at the interesting displays and artifacts — including a hollowed-out classic car that serves as a bar.

An antique Ford Fairlane finds a new purpose as a bar.

The following that Southern Smoke has is well-justified, and I now consider myself one of the admirers. Excellent barbecue smoked over oak coals is definitely a reason to drive to Garland. Next time I’ll arrive early and join in the conversation with other customers waiting in line.

The shaded backyard is an inviting place to enjoy barbecue smoked slowly over oak coals.

Signs in downtown Garland help BBQ fans find their destination.

Pulling into Stubbs and Son in Carthage, NC

In a hurry and want chopped pork barbecue prepared in the traditional style of eastern North Carolina? As you pass through Carthage, NC, on U.S. 15-501, look for a small, plain building on the east side of the highway. Unless you’re heading north, you may miss the large sign facing southward that marks the third location of Stubbs and Sons BBQ that opened in 2017.

The third location of Stubbs and Son BBQ opened in Carthage in 2017.

It’s one of the few BBQ places with a drive-through window. You can pull in, order, get your food, and keep traveling in minutes. I ordered from the window inside the small indoor eating area, but most customers use the drive-through window. Since my lunch – like all food served -- was packed to go, taking home leftovers was easy.

An menu board is next to the inside order window.

The server said that the barbecue is prepared off site at the Sanford (Tramway) location, which opened in 2013 (replacing the previous Jackson Brothers). The other location is near Pittsboro and still carries its original name of Allen & Sons, which owner Jimmy Stubbs has managed for almost two decades.

Although I was in central North Carolina, the first bite of my barbecue sandwich carried me several hundred miles east to where the whole hog barbecue tradition of vinegar- and pepper-based sauce (with no tomato or ketchup added) has its roots. Complementing the meat on the sandwich was a sweet and slightly spicy coleslaw, which is made fresh daily, also in the eastern style.

Chopped BBQ on a bun with coleslaw is a favorite.

However, before I ordered my sandwich, I first ordered the homemade banana pudding, and I also tasted it first. It is swe-e-e-e-t with fresh bananas and vanilla wafers softened by the pudding. I alternated bites of it with bites of the sandwich. I’m sure that everyone doesn’t follow this approach, but for today it was a great idea.

The banana pudding is the best dessert.

Larger meat orders come on a plate with two sides (and a choice of bread – instead of a plain roll, pick hushpuppies, which are excellent). In addition to coleslaw, the sides include the usual potato offerings (fries, salad, etc.) but the fries are sliced fresh daily. Other noteworthy sides include deep-fried corn on the cob and fried okra.

While I was at the restaurant, all but one order was for barbecue. The lone exception was a BLT. However, seafood, chicken, Brunswick stew and other sandwiches are also on the menu.

It's a rare moment when the drive-through lane is empty.

Don’t hesitate to pull into the drive-through when you’re hungry for eastern N.C. style barbecue and you’re in the hurry. Just remember where you’re going because soon your state of mind will be in the eastern part of North Carolina.

Rocky Mount: Continuing After a Hurricane

The Eastern Carolina BBQ ThrowDown, held annually in October in Rocky Mount, NC, is a favorite event for many cooking teams and judges. However, October is also in the midst of hurricane season for areas near the Atlantic coast.

Cooking teams set up near the train station in the historic district.

Last year the event couldn’t be held because Hurricane Matthew brought devastating flooding and strong winds as the ThrowDown was scheduled to begin. After waiting patiently a year to return to Rocky Mount, 50 cooking teams were ready for intense competition. Muttley CrewBBQ, a team that I have visited, won top honors as grand champion as well as top place in the categories of chicken and ribs.

A festive crowd enjoys live music in front of the train station. 

The competition is held on the grounds of the Helen P. Gay Historic Rocky Mount Train Station, one of the most attractive sites for cookoffs sanctioned by the Kansas City Barbeque Society. It and more than 100 other distinctive buildings form the national historic district of the city. The station, built in 1893, is still active and is served by four passenger trains. Judges met in the adjacent Rocky Mount Senior Center.

The turn-in table is set up in advance.

The ThrowDown is organized by Rocky Mount’s Downtown Development Office, which seeks to keep the historic downtown area vibrant with retail shops, restaurants, antique stores, and other businesses. This year a new activity was added to the ThrowDown – a cruise-in of classic cars. For the third year, the ThrowDown also included a home brewing competition, which was judged by representatives of local breweries.

Judges wait for the first meat category to be turned in.

However, the prime attraction of the event was the cooking competition and the successful talents proven by each team that won a trophy. The ThrowDown trophies, hand-blown glass on a marble base and commissioned especially for this event, are some of the most attractive that cooking teams can win.

The contest awards very distinctive trophies.

The Eastern Carolina BBQ ThrowDown continues to be a popular event in October for cooking teams and judges. The distinctive setting by the famous train station in the historic district creates an enjoyable ambiance. Having beautiful, dry fall weather is also important.