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| Beef brisket is prepared for the smoker at Lawrence BBQ. |
Of course, you would—if it’s prepared by Lawrence BBQ, the latest addition to the barbecue scene in North Carolina and one of the top new barbecue places in the South. The location is as intriguing as the chef and his barbecue.
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| Boxyard RTP is the home of Lawrence BBQ. |
Located in the state’s Research Triangle Park in Boxyard RTP, a shipping container startup development (really!), Lawrence BBQ is the most vibrant occupant. In the facility’s more than 18,000 square feet, about 40 shipping containers have been repurposed as restaurants, retail stores, and event spaces. While Boxyard RTP is transforming containers into functional spaces, chef Jake Wood and his wife Brandi are enchanting old and new fans of barbecue.
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| The line to order at Lawrence BBQ never seems to end. |
Don’t plan on table service. You order from a window and pick up a few minutes later at a second window. And plan to wait to order. The line at Lawrence BBQ seems to never end as RTP workers converge there at lunchtime. The most popular orders are Texas-style beef brisket and traditional N.C. pulled pork. Both are slowly smoked over hard oak and hickory wood. Other popular choices include turkey, chicken, and oysters.
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| The pickup window with the kitchen in the background. |
A large covered picnic-style outdoor seating area is where most customers sit to enjoy their food and also listen to live music, although some orders are carried back to offices for lunch. Lawrence BBQ opens at 11 a.m. (now four days a week), but it often closes when it runs out of food. Clearly a disappointment.
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| Live music is featured on Thursdays, Fridays, and Sundays at Boxyard RTP. |
To smoke his meats, Wood uses the huge Lang 108 BBQ smoker, which is respected for how well it maintains an even cooking temperature across the racks. Three smokers are lined up in an adjacent open space outside the restaurant’s kitchen (that is in a repurposed shipping container). They will be eventually replaced by a smokehouse that will be built on site. For pork fans, only shoulders are cooked. Because space at Boxyard RTP is so limited, Wood had to abandon his original plan to cook N.C.-style whole hog.
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| Chopped wood is ready for the smokers. |
To complement a pork sandwich, my wife and I shared an order of tangy coleslaw and a spirited side of baked beans. (The next time I come, I'll order the three-chess mac and also hope that they haven’t sold out of desserts.) The sides are Wood’s take on classic barbecue sides, and everything is made in-house except for the buns.
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| A pulled pork sandwich with coleslaw is a popular choice. |
This month Robert Moss, barbecue writer for Southern Living, considers Lawrence BBQ as one of the South’s six best new barbecue joints. If you appreciate creative menus, follow the restaurant on Instagram to learn when footlong pork belly corndogs are available. Long strips of pork belly are smoked on a pit, rolled in cornmeal batter, and fried golden brown.
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| The menu board is quite simple and easy to update. |
The opening of Lawrence BBQ had been highly anticipated because Wood had previously been chef de cuisine at 18 Seaboard, a now-closed restaurant in Raleigh. His reputation in the region expanded when he was recently featured at the Charleston Wine + Food Festival. Plus he’s a hit with fans of white sauce that Alabama is known for since Wood has it as one of his sauces, although N.C. natives will appreciate his vinegar-based sauce.
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| Our sides of cole slaw and cue beans. |
The opening, originally planned for early 2020, was delayed by the coronavirus pandemic until June. Eventually the business will expand to the top level when Wood opens a leisure bar called Lagoon on what he calls his “Party Deck.”
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| The kitchen is constantly busy once Lawrence BBQ opens. |
Although Wood spent many years in fine dining in downtown Raleigh, he grew up cooking whole hogs at family reunions and has been smoking meats with his family for most of his life. He was taught everything about hog butchering by Allen Lawrence, his mother’s father, and the restaurant carries his name. (Another family connection is that Grandma Lawrence’s recipe is used for the sweet potato casserole.)
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| The central area includes 300 picnic-style seats (covered and uncovered) with a small stage for live music. |
Boxyard RTP promotes itself as a “next-generation” retail destination for the more than 55,000 employees who work in RTP. It definitely is a fascinating place to explore or bring guests, and Lawrence BBQ deserves a visit.
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| Don't worry about staying cool at Boxyard RTP. (Big Ass Fans keep the air circulating.) |
