Shelby, a Legendary Place for Barbecue

Shelby, NC, is where many people go for great barbecue. As the home of Red Bridges’ Barbecue Lodge as well as the annual Hog Happnin’ cookoff, Shelby has been on the “barbecue map” for a long time.

One of the prominent destinations on the North Carolina Barbecue Trail, Red Bridges’ has contributed to N.C. barbecue lore and brought many visitors to Shelby, a small city in western North Carolina between Charlotte and Asheville. They come to taste barbecue prepared by third-generation family members who learned their craft from the original Bridges, who himself learned the art of cooking pork shoulders slowly over wood coals from legendary Warner Stamey of Greensboro. Similarly, the Hog Happnin’ entices visitors to Shelby with its fine reputation as a competitive barbecue event since it began 24 years ago.

Hog Happnin' is held at the Cleveland County (NC) Fairgrounds.

After visiting Red Bridges’ earlier this year, I wanted to be a judge for the Hog Happnin’ to experience how it contributed to the barbecue culture of Shelby, the county seat of Cleveland County. A large crowd at Hog Happnin’ is typical because the weather during the first weekend in November is almost always perfect. Only once before (in 2014) had it rained during the event – and the second time was this year. Although the rain dampened the crowd turnout, it didn’t diminish the spirits of the cooking teams.

Rain chilled but didn't diminish the enthusiasm of the cooking teams.

This year Hog Happnin’ attracted 61 teams – some from as far away as California, Rhode Island, Massachusetts and Florida that sought to advance in the overall points tournament held nationwide by KCBS, and they came to Shelby to hold their places in the points race. Teams were also attracted by cash prizes that total $15,000, in addition to the prospects of advancing in the Old North State Barbecue Series. Hog Happnin’ is one of five KCBS-sanctioned events in the series held throughout North Carolina to determine the Old North State Champion (other events are held in Kings Mountain, Lexington, Kannapolis and Salisbury).

Several out-of-state teams, such as this one from Rhode Island, traveled a long distance to compete.

The contest has been superbly organized since it began. Jerry Gardner, whose KCBS membership number of 461 indicates that he is an early member of the Society, served as the event director for its first 17 years. Now as the BBQ competition director, he focuses more specifically on cooking teams, judges, and other competition details.

Although the typical gate fee of $5 was waived, rainy weather reduced the size of the crowd.

I had met Gardner in April at Bib’s Camel City Cookoff (we were seated at the same judges table) and learned about his long involvement and leadership of Hog Happnin’. Gardner also mentioned that registration for judges was timed to open online on June 1. Early that day I completed the application but didn’t receive notification until mid-September that I had been selected as a judge (from his wife Joyce, also a certified judge, who is the judge coordinator). With such a large number of cooking teams, the organizers fielded 12 tables of judges.

Judges relax in the fairgrounds exhibition hall before the turn-in of entries begins.

Since its beginnings, proceeds from the Hog Happnin’ have benefited the local charities. Among its recipients is the Children’s Homes of Cleveland County. According to Gardner, the event has raised more than $300,000 over the last 13 years for the Homes. Before the judging began, Margie Christopher of Children’s Homes spoke to the judges about how important Hog Happnin’ is for providing necessary funds for its annual operations.

Winner of the Grand Championship was Smokin' Mo's, a team from California.

Although being a judge is a reward in itself, an added benefit at Hog Happnin’ is that judges are treated to homemade ice cream after all entries have been judged. Made by David Lail of Frostbite Ridge Farm, it was the perfect end to the competition.

Homemade ice cream is a great way to finish an afternoon of BBQ judging.

Shelby is a logical location to conduct a barbecue cooking competition. Hog Happnin’ has deservedly earned its place in the statewide culture for promoting and enjoying barbecue and in the community for contributing to worthwhile causes.

Judging in My Hometown

After I was certified as a barbecue judge, I knew that I had to participate in an event in my hometown of Winston-Salem, NC. When I learned about Bib’s Camel City Cookoff, I hoped that I would be accepted as a judge. Fortunately, the grand prize of $10,000 attracted many cooking teams and required more judges than anticipated.

Teams were set up early for the competition.

The number of cooking teams had “exploded,” said Doug Reid, one of the Kansas City Barbeque Society reps at the event, as he commented on the jump from 40 teams last year to 51 this year. More cooking teams require more judges – this year judges filled 11 tables, and I felt lucky to be one.

Cookoff was held at the Winston-Salem Fairgrounds.

The competition built on the success of its first year when its inaugural name was Jammin’ Pig Music Festival. Even with the name change, music was still a major part of cookoff. Blues music was on schedule the night before, and the day of the cookoff featured four local groups in a battle of the bands. Held at the Winston-Salem Fairgrounds, the event had plenty of space for the cooking teams and other activities. Parking and admission were free, which helped to attract several thousand visitors to the cookoff.

Yesterday Village at the fairgrounds was a brief walk from the cookoff location.

The contest organizer was Mark Little, who goes by the nickname “Bib” and is the pitmaster and co-owner of Bib’s Downtown, a barbecue and catering establishment. When I asked him how he got the nickname, he said, “That’s all I wear.” Little wanted an opportunity to expand BBQ culture in Winston-Salem and bring more BBQ exposure to the city. Little is a third-generation resident of Winston-Salem, and I learned that I had attended the high school that his aunt Ruth had attended.

Mark Little (right), pitmaster at Bib's Downtown, was the contest organizer.

One of the special experiences I had was judging at a table with Jerry Gardner, a long-term judge. The number of 461 on his member tag indicates that he’s one of the early members of the Kansas City Barbeque Society. He said that he attended the first judging class east of the Mississippi River.

Checkered Pig, which placed second in the pork category, finished in fifth place overall.

When the final scores were in, the judges at the table where I was sitting were relieved. “My next meal will be salad,” one said. Another added, “The only thing I want now is ice cream.” However, we were all satisfied that we had judged some of the best barbecue ever.