Judging Barbecue Before Sampling Moonshine

It was only a matter of time before an enterprising organizer connected moonshine and barbecue. Of course, the location has to be Wilkes County, NC, that has popularly been referred to as “The Moonshine Capital of America.” The Stills and Grills Fest, which had a preliminary backyard event last year, was sanctioned this year for the first time in the master series of competitions held by the Kansas City Barbeque Society.

As I drove northwest into North Wilkesboro on U.S. 421, I passed a sign proclaiming that section of the road as “Junior Johnson Highway.” This local racing legend (born Robert Glenn Johnson, Jr.) was one of about 700 people in Wilkes County who made a living by hauling illegal whiskey to its markets. Because North Wilkesboro is located in the foothills of Appalachia, it was a major distribution point for transporting moonshine. The highway linked the backwoods and hills to large cities throughout the South and mid-Atlantic.

A portable still of Copper Barrel Distillery, based in North Wilkesboro, sits among the cooking teams.

Local distilleries, now legal and gaining a far-reaching reputation for their artisanal spirits, source their grains from area farms much like earlier generation of distillers. The corn used by Copper Barrel, for example, comes from Linney’s Water Mill, which has been in business for 187 years. 

Cooking teams set up along the perimeter of the county's agricultural fairgrounds.

Finding moonshine at a barbecue cookoff is not as surprising as meeting a judge who has a pork allergy. Although Bill Moon, from Florida, is a certified judge, he can only participate as a table captain or another capacity requiring a judge. Because he cannot be sure than any meat (chicken, brisket) from a team has not been in contact with pork, he never tastes any entry, but he does enjoy the camaraderie of being at cookoffs and has also competed as a pitmaster.

Judges sign in and receive their table assignments.

In its first year as a fully sanctioned competition, Stills and Grills was an excellent cookoff and has set a good foundation to grow and develop in future years. The 21 cooking teams were spread along the perimeter of the county’s agricultural fairgrounds, but the “artisanal spirits” on display by the local distilleries attracted more attention. Tasting tickets were sold for $10 at the gate to people 21 years of age and older.

The turn-in table is ready for the first entries.

Some barbecue contests end with a cone of ice cream or dish of banana pudding for the judges. In North Wilkesboro, you wouldn’t expect anything other than a sample (or two) of an artisanal spirit, or as it’s better known, moonshine. When the judges were dismissed from their tables, watching them head out quickly to the sample booths made me wonder what they came for: judging barbecue or moonshine.

Local distilleries are ready to pour samples of their products.

Second place in the ribs category helped Two Old Men & A Grill to finish third overall in the contest.

Judging in Kannapolis Again

Jiggy with the Piggy in Kannapolis, NC, is a preeminent cookoff each May for both barbecue cooks and judges because the organizers are such professionals, which shouldn’t be a surprise: they are employees of the city. Every detail of the contest is planned and executed superbly, and every year the event builds on the knowledge learned and experience gained from past contests.

City employees help judges as they arrive.

In previous years, 75 or more cooking teams had completed, but only 60 teams were selected to compete this year. The reduction in teams provided more area for vendors and extra space to move teams in case of inclement weather. However, that number of cooking teams still required a lot of judges – all seated at ten tables – and several were from out-of-state. At least one was a first-time judge and some had participated in more than 50 contests. I was glad to return because I had enjoyed last year’s contest. 

Judges meet in the city hall of Kannapolis.

For this year’s contest that was again sanctioned by the Kansas City Barbeque Society, teams from six states competed for cash prizes valued at $16,225, an increase in the amount won last year. Receiving a check for $1,500 for placing first as the grand champion was the Muttley Crew BBQ team from Apex, NC.

Cooking teams set up on the greenspace of the North Carolina Research Campus.

The North Carolina Research Campus, where the festival is held, is home to research activities that advance health, nutrition, and agriculture. The impressive buildings of the campus enclose a park-like greenspace where the barbecue teams set up and the other festival activities are held.

Old Colony Smokehouse from Edenton, NC, placed first in the pork category and won second place in the people's choice contest.

In addition to cookoff activities, the three-day festival this year featured more than 100 arts and craft vendors. The entertainment schedule included concerts, fireworks, movies, a 5K run/walk, and children’s events such as the Zucchini 600, a contest for children to build a racecar out of zucchini and compete for prizes.

Jiggy with the Piggy includes many children's activities.

A popular event that entertains the Kannapolis community, Jiggy with the Piggy will also continue to be popular with cooking teams and judges because it is so well organized and executed.

City employees offer banana pudding to judges after all entries have been judged.

The grand champion's check was awarded to the Muttley Crew BBQ team. Photo by City of Kannapolis.