Newcomer to Barbecue Scene in Southern Pines, NC

My pulled pork platter with sides, sauce, and a corn muffin.

The birth of a new barbecue restaurant always creates excitement. When plans for Embers BBQ in downtown Southern Pines, NC, were announced, the local community couldn’t wait to know the official opening date. 

Opening of Embers BBQ 

After conducting a test run of its smoker in April 2022, Embers indicated that it would open in late May. Anticipation continued to build in the community. Then the opening day was delayed two weeks, and shelves with Embers merchandise for sale had to wait for buyers. 

Merchandise was ready for sale even before the restaurant opened.

When a new BBQ restaurant opens, you can’t delay going to sample its fare if you are a true barbecue fan. About a week after Embers had opened, the website was still proclaiming “Grand Opening Soon,” while I was at the counter and checking over the menu. 

Embers BBQ proclaims that it is open for business.

Menu Choices 

Platters include pulled pork, pulled pork nachos, ribs, pulled chicken, pulled chicken nachos, and brisket. Sandwiches of pulled pork, pulled chicken, and brisket are also on the menu along with several other options. The surprise of the pulled pork platter that I ordered was finding a couple of fried okra nestled next to the barbecue. The platter also came with slaw, one side (my choice was sweet potato fries), and a corn muffin.  I also added another side (mac and cheese).

The kitchen prep area continually is busy.

Although the pulled pork was excellent, I’m timing my next visit to be on Wednesday or Saturday when a rack of ribs is on the menu. (The availability of burnt ends is also limited; it’s ready only on Thursdays). Don’t wait until closing hours to go; they often run out of barbecue several hours before closing. Occasionally, they post on Facebook that only burgers and pulled chicken are available after a busy day. (Why order a hamburger at a barbecue restaurant?) 

Almost everything on the menu is also sold by the pound from barbecue to sides such as slaw, baked beans, and okra. The menu includes just about everything you would want (but it’s not as extensive as the restaurant’s online privacy policy — it’s amazing how much it covers. 

Many menu items are also sold by the pound.

Great Start So Far 

With a motto of “You Don’t Need a Silver Spoon to Eat Good Food,” Embers is where you might not even need anything more than an appetite and a very cold beverage. With the smoker in the basement, expect warm temperatures on the main level where customers order and most eat. On a nice day, plan to eat outside at one of the front-porch tables. 

Embers is decorated simply with effectively.

New barbecue restaurants are needed to replace the old, historic ones that are struggling and eventually close. While the traditional ones serve excellent barbecue at reasonable prices, their numbers seem to be gradually declining. New ones gauge the market better to determine what should be on the menu and what the prices should be. 

Signs in Embers create a nostalgic look.

Embers took over the location in downtown Southern Pines that had been occupied for decades by Broad Street Bakery. Although I will miss the bakery, nothing better than a barbecue restaurant could have taken its place. An unusual combo of a former golf pro and a restaurant chef, partners in the new venture, have launched a superior barbecue spot that may become the area’s favorite. Let’s hope the new restaurant continues to deliver superior results.

Another Juneteenth Cookoff

The winning team celebrates with their trophy.

The barbecue cookoff begun last year as a first-time contest at Sandhills Community College in Pinehurst, NC, was such a success, it’s now an annual event. 

Events to Commemorate Juneteenth

The competition was sponsored and planned by the Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion Committee at the college. Now officially known as the DEI Annual Barbecue Cookoff, the contest is one of several campus events to commemorate Juneteenth, which officially became a federal holiday last year on June 19 every year. It is now known as Juneteenth National Independence Day and celebrates the end of slavery on that date in 1865. 

The Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion Committee sponsored and planned the cookoff.

Although the Emancipation Proclamation had freed anyone enslaved in most areas of the Confederacy almost 2½ years earlier, the proclamation’s decree was not being upheld in Galveston, Texas, and other areas of the state. On June 19, 1865, Gen. Gordon Granger issued a general order that proclaimed freedom for the enslaved in Texas, and Union soldiers brought the news of freedom to the enslaved Blacks there. 

The cookoff has become a part of the annual celebration.

Cookoff as a Way to Celebrate

In addition to the cookoff, the college’s commemoration again included music, spoken word, and other activities. Of course, the campus cookoff was the main attraction. It embraces a long tradition of including food events as the commemoration of Juneteenth spread over the years even before last year when it officially became a federal holiday. 

The winning entry was a clear favorite among the judges.

Although this time the cookoff was limited to only pork ribs, the judges were more than pleased to judge that category. Each entry was judged for appearance, taste/flavor, tenderness, and texture by a group of four judges. I was again fortunate to judge with members of the college faculty and staff, and we were unanimous in our choice of the winning team. 

The judges took their responsibilities very seriously.

The campus barbecue cookoff is well on its way to becoming a tradition. It’s a great way to celebrate a special day with food and comradery.

Several activities were held in the student center to commemorate Juneteenth.

Revisiting Ayden, NC, after a Pandemic

If you know one of the competition cooks, she might give you a tray of extras to take home.

Ayden has to be the most barbecue-centric town in North Carolina, which is easily the most-barbecue-centric state. The community’s barbecue heritage is celebrated every year, except when the coronavirus pandemic has canceled activities. 

Businesses celebrate the town's barbecue heritage, such as Oakley Auto Body that has this pig display at its entrance.

Barbecue Heritage of Ayden

The annual BBQ competition is named “Kings of Q” in honor of the two legendary barbecue kings and their family-run barbecue establishments: Skylight Inn and Bum’s Restaurant. In the event this year, 32 teams competed, and scores of the top ones were separated by very small margins.

Teams set up in several locations throughout the town.

The weather was perfect; actually, it was sunny and hot, but having no rain makes for a good contest. Because little sun was on display the last time that I was a judge in Ayden, I appreciated the sunny skies. 

Barbecue Judging in Ayden

When Stephen Tripp, the mayor of Ayden, welcomed the judges to the event, he mentioned that barbecue is the new focus of the town’s marketing campaign. It has also adopted a new motto: Que Marks the Spot. It’s more than fitting for a town that has such a barbecue history and tradition. 

The mayor welcomes judges to Ayden and explains the new marketing campaign.

At each contest, judges have duties other than specifically judging meat turned in by the cooking teams. For Kings of Q, I was assigned to the “turn in” table with two other judges. The teams have a 10-minute window to turn in each meat at a designated time. After an entry is turned in, it is renumbered before being taken to a table to be judged. This procedure is known as “blind judging” because the judges cannot identify any cooking team. 

The town's new motto is featured on several items.

The contest, sanctioned by the Kansas City Barbeque Society, is easily one of my favorites, and I’m glad that I was able to judge at the inaugural event. The event this year was promoted as the seventh annual (although the contest for years five and six were canceled). 

The town provides amazing support for the contest, including blocking streets in the center of Ayden.

Future BBQ Contests in Ayden

Let’s hope that the weather continues to be favorable in May in future years when the contest is scheduled. It’s very important to the local community that we recognize and honor its barbecue heritage, and Ayden is a very welcoming town for anyone who appreciates great barbecue. 

Stem, NC: A Barbecue Scene Suitable for a Wedding

All judging activities for the cookoff took place in the party barn.

A wedding venue makes a great choice as the site for a barbecue cookoff. The scenery is typically extraordinary, a large hall with extra side spaces is often available, and parking is more than adequate with overflow grounds for large crowds. The Barn at Vino in Stem, NC, is a popular choice for weddings and special events, and now it is also where BBQ teams and judges will convene each spring for a contest sanctioned by Kansas City Barbecue Society. 

The rolling green fields at the Farm included lots of spaces for vendors and activities.

Located on a 95-acre property with two large ponds in rural Granville County, the farm is a clear favorite of local brides. The landscape includes rolling green fields and almost three acres of vineyards, and the drive leading to the barn is charmingly tree-lined. That scenery notwithstanding, it was even more amazing as smoke spiraled from cookers that 46 professional teams and 24 amateur teams were tending for Jimbo’s Annual BBQ Competition.

Cooking teams are set up in assigned spaces near the barn.

The contest attracted some of the top teams in the Southeast, and the top-placing teams were familiar names. The event was also a fundraiser for Wreaths Across America, a charity organization that coordinates wreath-laying ceremonies at 2,500 locations to honor fallen military veterans. In addition to watching the BBQ teams compete, the spectators also enjoyed the scene with live music, an aerial display, 30 vendors, and food trucks. 

Live music was part of the entertainment for the day.

The contest marked a renewed interest in BBQ competitions as the effects of the pandemic seem to be under control and more events are being planned. For quite a few judges, this event was the first one for them in more than a year, and it was also the first event for several new judges. 

The scenery at the Farm at Vino made the weekend special/ The cookoff in future years will be just as successful as the one this year.

   

When there's a party, the Stem Fire Department comes too.

Would You Eat BBQ Prepared in a Container Box?

Beef brisket is prepared for the smoker at Lawrence BBQ.

Of course, you would—if it’s prepared by Lawrence BBQ, the latest addition to the barbecue scene in North Carolina and one of the top new barbecue places in the South. The location is as intriguing as the chef and his barbecue. 

Boxyard RTP is the home of Lawrence BBQ.

Located in the state’s Research Triangle Park in Boxyard RTP, a shipping container startup development (really!), Lawrence BBQ is the most vibrant occupant. In the facility’s more than 18,000 square feet, about 40 shipping containers have been repurposed as restaurants, retail stores, and event spaces. While Boxyard RTP is transforming containers into functional spaces, chef Jake Wood and his wife Brandi are enchanting old and new fans of barbecue. 

The line to order at Lawrence BBQ never seems to end.

Don’t plan on table service. You order from a window and pick up a few minutes later at a second window. And plan to wait to order. The line at Lawrence BBQ seems to never end as RTP workers converge there at lunchtime. The most popular orders are Texas-style beef brisket and traditional N.C. pulled pork. Both are slowly smoked over hard oak and hickory wood. Other popular choices include turkey, chicken, and oysters. 

The pickup window with the kitchen in the background.

A large covered picnic-style outdoor seating area is where most customers sit to enjoy their food and also listen to live music, although some orders are carried back to offices for lunch. Lawrence BBQ opens at 11 a.m. (now four days a week), but it often closes when it runs out of food. Clearly a disappointment. 

Live music is featured on Thursdays, Fridays, and Sundays at Boxyard RTP.

To smoke his meats, Wood uses the huge Lang 108 BBQ smoker, which is respected for how well it maintains an even cooking temperature across the racks. Three smokers are lined up in an adjacent open space outside the restaurant’s kitchen (that is in a repurposed shipping container). They will be eventually replaced by a smokehouse that will be built on site. For pork fans, only shoulders are cooked. Because space at Boxyard RTP is so limited, Wood had to abandon his original plan to cook N.C.-style whole hog. 

Chopped wood is ready for the smokers.

To complement a pork sandwich, my wife and I shared an order of tangy coleslaw and a spirited side of baked beans. (The next time I come, I'll order the three-chess mac and also hope that they haven’t sold out of desserts.) The sides are Wood’s take on classic barbecue sides, and everything is made in-house except for the buns. 

A pulled pork sandwich with coleslaw is a popular choice.

This month Robert Moss, barbecue writer for Southern Living, considers Lawrence BBQ as one of the South’s six best new barbecue joints. If you appreciate creative menus, follow the restaurant on Instagram to learn when footlong pork belly corndogs are available. Long strips of pork belly are smoked on a pit, rolled in cornmeal batter, and fried golden brown. 

The menu board is quite simple and easy to update.

The opening of Lawrence BBQ had been highly anticipated because Wood had previously been chef de cuisine at 18 Seaboard, a now-closed restaurant in Raleigh. His reputation in the region expanded when he was recently featured at the Charleston Wine + Food Festival. Plus he’s a hit with fans of white sauce that Alabama is known for since Wood has it as one of his sauces, although N.C. natives will appreciate his vinegar-based sauce. 

Our sides of cole slaw and cue beans.

The opening, originally planned for early 2020, was delayed by the coronavirus pandemic until June. Eventually the business will expand to the top level when Wood opens a leisure bar called Lagoon on what he calls his “Party Deck.” 

The kitchen is constantly busy once Lawrence BBQ opens.

Although Wood spent many years in fine dining in downtown Raleigh, he grew up cooking whole hogs at family reunions and has been smoking meats with his family for most of his life. He was taught everything about hog butchering by Allen Lawrence, his mother’s father, and the restaurant carries his name. (Another family connection is that Grandma Lawrence’s recipe is used for the sweet potato casserole.) 

The central area includes 300 picnic-style seats (covered and uncovered) with a small stage for live music.

Boxyard RTP promotes itself as a “next-generation” retail destination for the more than 55,000 employees who work in RTP. It definitely is a fascinating place to explore or bring guests, and Lawrence BBQ deserves a visit.

Don't worry about staying cool at Boxyard RTP. (Big Ass Fans keep the air circulating.)

Celebrating in Apex, NC, with Barbecue

Winner of the pork category, Top Gun also scored high enough in the other categories to be the grand champion.

The Peak City Pig Fest has been a top community event in Apex, NC, each summer for bringing the community together over barbecue as well as attracting visitors to its downtown business district … until the coronavirus pandemic caused the ninth annual cookoff to be canceled in 2020. 

The beer garden is always a popular spot at the Pig Fest.

At the judges meeting, Mayor Jacques Gilbert heartily welcomed everyone and emphasized how important the event has been to the town since the inaugural cookoff was held in 2012. 

Judges await the arrival of the mayor to start the meeting.

The cookoff also important for cooking teams to showcase their talents as well as for judges who traveled this year from as far north as New Jersey and Ohio and south as Florida to participate in an event sanctioned by the Kansas City Barbecue Society. 

The first turn-in of the contest is brought to Doug Reid (left), KCBS contest representative.

The Pig Fest continues to be one of my favorites, perhaps because it was where I cooked with one of the competition teams in 2016. It also attracts the top cookoff teams in the Southeast. For this year, 30 cooking teams competed. 

Banners promoting the Pig Fest adorn posts in downtown Apex...

The organizers couldn’t hold the usual street festival with a wide assortment of vendors and activities because they had decided very late to conduct the cookoff this year. Concerns about the pandemic and the new delta variant delayed the decision. 

... where streets are unusually quiet without any vendors,...

However, the weekend still featured a beer garden and barbecue plates for sale; both are important activities for the Apex Sunrise Rotary Club because the Pig Fest is its signature fund-raising event. Because so many people were interested in attending the event, lines for both beer and food sales were very long. 

... but the line for the beer garden was long.

Even with the disruptions of the pandemic over the last 18 months, the cooking teams were performing at a very high level. With a total score of 694.2516, Top Gun Barbecue squeaked out a win over the second-place team, Smoke N Brew Mafia, by only 0.046 points, less than a tenth of a point. 

Plates of BBQ were sold to contribute to the fund-raising efforts of the organizers.

Seeing the Pig Fest return to Apex is a hopeful sign and shows how important such community events are for everyone involved.

Commemorating Juneteenth with a Cookoff

Pork tenderloin, the pork entry by one team, was absolutely superior.

What event should be held to commemorate Juneteenth? Why not something that brings everyone together like a barbecue cookoff? That is exactly what Sandhills Community College in Pinehurst, NC did. 

The college’s commemoration also included music, spoken word, and other activities. The main attraction was a campus cookoff, which follows a long tradition of including food events as the commemoration of Juneteenth spread even before today when it officially became a federal holiday. 

Juneteenth commemorates June 19, 1865 — two months after the Confederacy had surrendered — when U.S. soldiers brought the news of freedom to enslaved Blacks in Galveston, Texas. On that date, Gen. Gordon Granger issued a general order that proclaimed freedom for the enslaved in Texas. The Emancipation Proclamation had freed anyone enslaved in most areas of the Confederacy almost 2½ years earlier, but the proclamation’s decree was not being upheld in the Galveston and other areas of Texas. 

This pulled pork was one of the top entries.

For the cookoff, four teams signed up to compete in three categories: chicken, beef, and pork. Each entry was judged in the areas of appearance, taste/flavor, tenderness, and texture by a group of four judges.

This chicken entry came complete with Texas toast and grilled zucchini.

I was fortunate to be invited to the cookoff as a judge. The three other judges were the college president, a member of the faculty, and a member of the staff. We were each impressed with the top-quality entries that the teams prepared and submitted. 

A team leader slices tenderloin just off the cooker to prepare the pork entry.

The leader of each team was a member of the college’s faculty or staff and was assisted by coworkers. Although the competition was limited to college personnel, their barbecue was as superior as that prepared by competitive cooking teams, and the college’s teams were equally serious about winning. 

Another team leader completes the cooking while it looks like he has enough supervisors.

The cooking teams and organizers had not been involved in a cookoff before. However, the rules prepared for the competition were very complete, and the procedures (e.g., scoring, judging, meat turn-in) were typical of competitive events. 

College employees gather under a picnic shelter to enjoy samples of some of the entries.

Less than five hours after the cookoff had ended, Juneteenth officially became a federal holiday on June 19 every year and will be known as Juneteenth National Independence Day to commemorate the end of slavery in 1865. What a great day today was for barbecue fans, the college, and the country.

The first entry required a lot of concentration. Photo by Laura Hill.