Returning to Normalcy for BBQ Fundraisers

The plate of barbecue comes with beans, cole slaw, and more.

What a difference a year makes, particularly when the coronavirus pandemic is involved. The pandemic required some barbecue fundraisers to suspend events and others to modify theirs. Now most have returned to their regular schedules, such as the annual harvest festival held by Culdee Presbyterian Church. 

A dedicated kitchen crew keeps the serving line moving.

Annual Fall Festival of Culdee Presbyterian Church 

In the Eastwood community of Moore County, NC, the church has cooked barbecue every November on the first weekend as a fundraiser for its projects and ministries as part of a harvest festival. The festival begins early at 10 a.m. when a “country store” opens and continues until the last ticket is bought for a raffle that starts at 6:30 p.m. Other activities occur throughout the day, but for me the priority is to arrive in time for supper before the barbecue sells out. A plate with pulled pork, slaw, baked beans, and a roll sells for $10. It also includes a homemade dessert and a beverage. 

The dessert table is loaded with homemade sweets.

Schedule for Preparing Barbecue 

The 2022 event was the 35th festival that the church had held. With that much experience, the church has perfected its schedule. Boston butts are taken to the church on the Saturday before the festival and are kept refrigerated until the next Wednesday when they are prepared by washing, rubbing with spices, and wrapping for cooking. At 4 o’clock on the next morning, a volunteer team begins cooking. On the next day (Friday), the butts are unwrapped, and the meat is pulled from the bones. And then all we have to do is wait for Saturday, the day of the fall festival. 

After barbecue has been cooked for many harvest festivals, the schedule has been perfected.

Selling Barbecue Also on January 1 

The folks at Culdee really know how to celebrate with food. On January 1 this year, the church celebrated the start of the new year with a Southern meal of pork barbecue, collards, black-eyed peas, and cornbread. Because the pandemic was still a concern, all meals were to-go. The barbecue then was as good as it was today. Maybe the Boston butts were prepared by the same volunteers on the same schedule. 

Several activities of the fall festival are held outdoors.

Celebrating the fall is a hallmark tradition for many communities, especially if they are more rural than urban. Because they include pork barbecue in their celebration, the festival is very enjoyable.

Charity BBQ Cookoff in Raleigh, NC

Impressive trophies are ready for the winning Brew-B-Q teams to receive.

What is the best way to raise money for charities? Brasfield & Gorrie, a general contracting company, may have the best idea: Recruit companies that do business with them to compete in a barbecue cookoff and have them donate an entry fee for the right to participate.

Cooking teams were set up in the parking lot next to the Woman's Club of Raleigh.

Brasfield & Gorrie Recruits Brew-B-Q Teams

For four consecutive years, Brasfield & Gorrie has raised a lot of money for charities in the Raleigh, NC, area. Even during the coronavirus pandemic, its Brew-B-Q was not suspended. It continues to be very successful and now recruits 40 teams to participate. The charity BBQ cooking contest is its largest outreach program.

Several cooking teams brought large smokers to the contest.

Charity Event for Brasfield & Gorrie

In the Raleigh area for 30 years and with offices in 13 cities in eight states, Brasfield & Gorrie has a revenue of $4 billion annually and 3,000 employees. The cooking teams it recruited were sponsored by subcontractors, business contacts, and other companies and friends in the professional network of Brasfield & Gorrie. The event last year raised $74,000 for charities, which include The Salvation Army of Wake County and the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society.

L.L. Vann Electric, a subcontractor to Brasfield & Gorrie, proudly displays its trophy for winning the Piglet division last year.

Cookoff Divisions

This year a new division — Boss Hog — was added to the contest. The other two divisions were Hog and Piglet. The Boss Hog section was reserved for teams that had placed among the top five teams in the other two divisions last year. It was limited to 10 teams, and each team donated at least $5,000 to enter. The Hog division had 15 teams; each donated at least $4,000. The Piglet division also had 15 teams; each donated at least $2,000.

Winners of each division also received a grand prize.

Judging Activities

Judging activities, coordinated by lead judge Lubin Prevatt who recruited the other 10 judges, were held in the Raleigh office of Brasfield & Gorrie. I judged in the Piglet division with Tim Croom and Owen Jackson, whom I know from previous whole hog barbecue contests. Each judge received a single sample box from each team in the division. Each box contained a Boston butt pork sample and a pork rib sample, and a separate scoresheet was used for each sample. 

Judging activities were held in the conference rooms of Brasfield & Gorrie.

The entries were quite competitive. An unusual surprise in a box was a pickle slice to “cleanse” the palate between sampling pork barbecue first and a rib next. Some boxes came with a green garnish; the most unusual one was a large collard leaf that covered the meat samples. It was intended to be on the bottom of the box. Because the box had been labeled upside down, it was on the top instead when I opened it.

Where's the meat? (Under the leaf.)

Blind Judging

Unlike whole hog contests sanctioned by N.C. Pork Council in its Whole Hog Barbecue Series where judges visit each site to evaluate a cooking team’s results, the judging for this event was “blind.”

Makela, the event coordinator, keeps a watchful eye over everything from team setup to judging activities.

The judges complied with the council’s requirements for blind judging (although the event wasn’t sanctioned by the Pork Council), and they used its blind judging rules and scoresheets. As a result, the judges didn’t know which teams had cooked the samples that they were evaluating. Boxes were randomly numbered to mask the identities of the teams.

Official scoresheets of N.C. Pork Council were used.

The cooking teams were obviously having a great time during the competition. They arrived early and stayed late, and the sounds of laughter and joking continued to echo throughout the cooking sites. The afternoon was a great one for the charities, Brasfield & Gorrie and its business partners, and the judges.

Cooking teams mingle as they wait to learn their scores.

Revisiting Shelby, NC, For A Two-Day BBQ Cookoff

Few events have cookoffs for two days. Most contests begin with team arrivals on Friday and a serious day of competition on Saturday. However, the Shelby (N.C.) BBQ Extravaganza took the opportunity to have two cookoffs on successive days after the teams had arrived on Friday — the first on Saturday and the second on Sunday. Both events crowned winners and awarded points for the very important annual team championship.

Teams set up for two days of competition.

Shelby BBQ Extravaganza

The Extravaganza was the first cookoff sanctioned by the Kansas City Barbecue Society in Shelby that I had attended since 2015, a very long time for a judge. Hog Happenin’, the previous contest, ended when the organizers ran out of energy. A new energetic, younger team is heading up the current event, and they have a lot of enthusiasm.

Judges relax in a fairground building before the first entries are turned in.

Hog Happenin’ had been held for 25 years. Its end saddened more than a few faces. The inaugural Extravaganza was held last year, and the event this year continued to build interest in holding an annual cookoff in Shelby, the home of the legendary Red Bridges Barbecue Lodge.

Artistic prizes for the winning teams await the judging results.

Two Days of Winners

Held at the Cleveland County Fairgrounds, the event actually produced winners on both days. Fortunately, I was able to judge each day. The entries that we judged were superior — indicative of the many quality teams participating in the competition.

Several historic buildings are part of the fairgrounds scene.

Many top cooks in KCBS were competing because the event occurs on the last weekend that teams can earn points for the annual KCBS team championship. Because each day produced winners, teams could double the points they typically can earn in a competition on a weekend. In fact, points earned on both days of the contest could determine the number-one team in KCBS for the year. The top team for day one was Rooter-N-Tooters; on day two, the top team was Off the Rack BBQ.

The turn-in table gets ready for the first samples.

Judging in Shelby was even more rewarding than you might expect. On the way home, I stopped at Tony’s Ice Cream on Gastonia. What a way to end a BBQ weekend!

Rooters-N-Tooters won the competition on the first day.

Whole Hog Cookoff in Fuquay-Varina, NC

A perfectly cooked whole hog is in shambles after the judges complete their evaluations.

A small whole hog cookoff sometimes can be a great format. Judges can allocate all the time needed to fully evaluate each site and not be in a rush, and each team knows that their participation is vital. With just seven teams competing, the American Legion Whole Hog Cookoff in Fuquay-Varina, NC, was the smallest event where I have judged.

The site of a cooking team waits for the judges to arrive.

American Legion Cookoff 

The cookoff was the fourth competition conducted by American Legion Post 166. Its previous events had a few more competitors, but this one still was helpful for building community interest in the event and supporting local programs. After judging activities were completed, plates of chopped barbecue plates were sold to the public for $10 each as a fundraiser. With music playing throughout the afternoon, the scene was quite festive.

Because the cookoff was only days before Halloween, spooky decorations decorate several cooking sites.

Sanctioned by N.C. Pork Council, the event is part of the Whole Hog Barbecue Series that celebrates the history and artistry of whole hog cooking and supports communities and nonprofits. Each year more than 130,000 people attend cooking contests in the series and enjoy the barbecue prepared by the cooking teams. 

After the judging is over, each team prepares their barbecue for the fundraiser. 

Judging at Whole Hog Cookoffs

For each site, each judge completed a culinary scoresheet. The criteria include appearance, color, skin crispness, moisture, meat and sauce taste, and completeness of the cooking site. In addition, the judges verify that each pig is fully cooked and the meat can be served to the public. Although at some contests a team is often disqualified for undercooked meat, at this contest all teams successfully met this requirement. 

Scoresheets are prepared before the judging activities begin.

Unfortunately for the teams, at least 10 cooks need to participate for the winner in the contest to be eligible to compete in the Whole Hog Barbecue Championship held in Raleigh at the end of the competition season. If the minimum participates, then the winner qualifies for the next state championship. 

Cooking teams set up the night before the day of the contest.

I was able to judge because I was the replacement for a judge who was recovering from COVID, another sign that the pandemic still has not subsided. I was eager to judge because my last whole hog cookoff had been more than three years ago; the pandemic caused the cancellation of several cookoffs and even one state championship.

Sauces are judged with the meat.

Cookoff Sponsor

Chartered in 1922, the post has a significant legacy that stretches over a century of being a supportive member of the community. With an energetic membership base, the post was already looking forward to a chili cookoff only a week away before the whole hog contest had ended. 

All the funds raised by the post are given back to the community. Its projects include scholarships for children, aid and assistance to local needy veterans and their families, and financial support for community programs and projects.

 

 A table of trophies is ready for the awards ceremony.

Because American Legion Post 166 contributes so much to its local community, being involved in one of its programs is an honor for me. I hope to return again.

Holy Barbecue On a Plate at Barbecue Church

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A big pot of chopped barbecue is ready to be served.

If you find a place with “barbecue” as its first name, you probably think you are close to Heaven, particularly if you are in a church. Barbecue Church, now Barbecue Presbyterian Church, knows a thing or two about barbecue. Founded in 1757, it has long been central to community life near Sanford, NC, and a place where great barbecue is served at its fall harvest celebration. 

Barbecue Presbyterian Church celebrates a rich tradition.

Barbecue: A Church, A Community, A Township 

When I moved to the N.C. Sandhills, one of my surprising discoveries was finding “barbecue” as a place name. A church on a road in a community in a township all have “barbecue” as a part of their names. What a coincidence, I thought. Not really. 

The church, founded in 1757, gets its name not from pork but from a legacy story. According to the church historian, a new settler to the area before the church was founded saw steam rising from a nearby creek. It reminded him of meat-cooking pits that he had seen in the Caribbean, and he named the creek Barbecue Creek.

 

An annual harvest festival is celebrated each September.

The name Barbecue was adopted for the community when new settlers began arriving during the early 1750s. It still represents the unincorporated community in the Barbecue Township of Harnett County. The township has a population of 17,000. 

The Barbecue community enjoys the annual harvest festival.

Barbecue Presbyterian Church: A Long History 

The early settlers were Highland Scots who brought the Presbyterian faith with them. They also brought their Gaelic worship traditions that had been outlawed by Parliament a few years earlier. Without a church or a preacher, they pooled 100 pounds and called James Campbell, a preacher from Philadelphia who had visited the area. He became the first Presbyterian minister in North Carolina and served Barbecue and two other churches (Long Street and Bluff) that were the “mother churches” to establish new churches in the N.C. Sandhills and gave up many members of their congregations for them to begin. He was the only minister to preach to the Scots in their Gaelic tongue until 1773.

A N.C. highway sign marks the history of the church and its founding in 1757.

The church was founded by Scottish Presbyterians who sailed to North Carolina after leaving Jura, Isle of Skye, in northern Scotland and the Presbytery of Inverary in 1739. Services initially were held in the back room of John Dobbins’s Ordinary (a tavern). In 1765 the first sanctuary, a one-room log building, was constructed. Ten years later a larger, wooden frame structure was completed. The third structure that still stands was built in 1895. 

Early settlers arrived from the Isle of Skye in northern Scotland.

The congregation has carried on its traditions for many years and celebrated its 250th anniversary just a few years ago. The annual harvest festival is a popular event for the congregation and local community. 

Many church members participate in chopping the barbecue. Photo: Barbecue Church via Facebook.

Traditional Barbecue at Barbecue Church 

The barbecue served during the harvest festival upholds the traditions of the church and the status of its name. However, rivaling the barbecue is chicken ‘n’ dumplings. What a combination. With them, cole slaw and mashed sweet potatoes with a roll are served on a plate. 

Sometimes chicken 'n' dumplings are just as good as barbecue.

The early Scots would be proud that the congregation has survived and continues to flourish. Enjoying barbecue with them is a great way to celebrate their heritage.

The annual event starts the day before with cooking pork shoulders. Photo: Barbecue Church via Facebook.

Another Barbecue Cookoff in Apex, NC

A banner high over the historic downtown area welcomes visitors.

The Peak City Pigfest continues to attract top cooking teams, and when they compete you can find a room full of judges. With “Peak City” in the cookoff’s title, few people have to ask where it’s being held because Apex, NC, is known for being “The Peak of Good Living.” 

Live music plays continually during the festival.

Barbecue Traditions

The nickname derives from 1867 when a train depot was built on the highest point on the old Chatham Railroad. Just seven years later, the town (never a city as implied by the contest’s name) was incorporated and began waiting for its first barbecue cookoff. Although historical records shed little light on how barbecue traditions developed in Apex, we do know that the Peak City Pigfest now celebrates its 10th year of bringing teams together to compete. 

An early crowd on Saturday morning enjoys listening to music and eating food sold at the festival.

Prize Money

For a total of $12,000 in prize money, 35 teams competed, which was five more than at the cookout last year. The event, which is sanctioned by the Kansas City Barbeque Society, is organized by the Apex Sunrise Rotary Club, and proceeds from the event have provided $100,000 to local charities. 

Teams set up near the center of the historic downtown area.

Festival Activities

During the weekend, activities including a beer garden, live music, food trucks, and a kids' play zone make the event popular with the local community. The festival typically brings several thousand visitors to the downtown area. 

Food vendors started early and stayed late.

Cookoff Judging

For the event, out-of-state judges often attend, but several were as far away as Indiana and Florida. Many have judged extensively, and one judge was participating in his 100th cookoff. However, contests are always welcoming new judges, and the judge that I sat next to was at just her second cookoff. Judges usually wear an assortment of barbecue-related apparel. The best T-shirt worn by a judge says: “A chicken, pig, and cow walk into a KCBS contest…. The End.” 

Judges chat informally before their meeting begins. 

Next Year

The contest continues to be a favorite of the teams, judges, and local community. With a well-established tradition of being an outstanding festival and cookoff for 10 years, the Peak City Pigfest will be where the barbecue community will be next summer.

Judging Hash in South Carolina

One of 11 heads used in traditional Lowcountry hogshead hash being made in Camp Branch, SC. Image: Carolina Hash / Folkstreams.

A special experience in barbecue judging is the opportunity to judge a youth contest or an ancillary dish. Sometimes young, aspiring pitmasters compete in “Kids Que” contests. In “Anything Butt” (or “Anything Goes”) and deserts-only contests, family favorites compete for special recognition and prizes. Barbecue cookoffs often have contests for side dishes like the one for hash at the BBQ and Blues Festival of Discovery in Greenwood, SC. You might ask, What is hash?

 

The Festival of Discovery features BBQ & Blues — and hash.

What Is South Carolina Hash? 

Hash is a traditional stew in South Carolina that dates back to the early 1800s, according to barbecue writer and historian Robert Moss. When hogs were slaughtered for barbecuing, parts such as the head, liver, and other organ meats that didn’t make it onto the pit were used to make hash and to make sure during a rural hog-killin’ that every last scrap of a hog wasn’t wasted. 

These items were cooked in a pot with water over an open fire for many hours until they had broken down and become a thick, gravy-like substance. Items such as red pepper, potatoes, and onions were often added, but the hash depends on the slowly cooked meat items for its hearty flavor.

 

Hash being made in The Hash House in Greenwood, SC. Image: Carolina Hash / Folkstreams.

  

Moss describes hash as a cross between a thick gravy and a stew. It’s typically a side dish that accompanies barbecue and not a meal by itself. Outside of South Carolina, nothing resembles this dish. Hash recipes have also been included in issues of food magazines such as Food & Wine, Bon Appetit, and The Local Palate. The name may come from “haslet,” an Old English word for the entrails of a butchered animal but other accounts also attribute the name to the French Huguenot population in early Charleston. 

When barbecue moved “indoors” as restaurants opened, hash was a standard side dish with the stew ladled over a bed of cooked white rice (or bread). When restaurants shifted from cooking whole hog to just shoulders and hams, many began making hash from the barbecue left over from the previous day, and about half of the S.C. barbecue restaurants surveyed by the (Charleston) Post & Courier no longer today include liver in their hash. 

Legendary in its time, The Hash House in Greenwood, SC, has closed. Image: Stan Woodward / Folkstreams.

The S.C. Office of Tourism describes hash as “a stewlike concoction of ground meats flavored with vegetables, condiments, and spices.” Most people are ready to sample it until they learn more about the history of hash and realize that many recipes rely on liver and other organ meats for the pungent flavor of hash. 

What Makes Hash Popular? 

Hash remains popular in South Carolina because it’s rooted in the state’s barbecue traditions. It is a typical side dish that usually accompanies a barbecue order. Definitely comfort food, it also commemorates the humble lifestyles of the past, and many people have developed a fondness for it because of family traditions. At one time “hash houses” were located throughout South Carolina with the largest concentration in the Upstate region, although many such as this one in Troy that closed in 2014 are no longer open. 

The Hash House in Troy, S.C., closed more than a decade ago. Photo: Hash House / Facebook.

The city of Greenwood was one of the most active hash-making places in the state, according to the folklife documentary Carolina Hash on the history of South Carolina hash. (Learn more by watching the documentary.) Today many barbecue restaurants have hash on their menus as the map below illustrates. 

At least 160 S.C. barbecue restaurants serve hash. Image: Southern Living.

How Do You Judge Hash? 

For events such as judging hash, there are no national standards or guidelines like for contests sanctioned by the Kansas City Barbecue Society. Sometimes a contest specifies only turn-in times; however, several guidelines were announced for the Greenwood event. 

This entry has a dominant tomato flavor.

For this contest, hash can consist of potatoes, onions, spices, and other seasonings with shredded pork or beef, or both. Because contest rules prohibited the presentation of the hash with side dishes or with any else such as rice or bread, each entry was simply the hash. (At KCBS events, barbecue is typically presented with a garnish.) 

Diced potatoes are the main component in this hash.

Each entry was judged on appearance, taste, and tenderness (the three criteria of a KCBS contest) and could have earned a maximum of 180 points. The winning team was Chicka-Piga-Moo that outdistanced K&E’s Little Smokers, which finished second, by only three points. Incidentally, Chicka-Piga-Moo is a top competitor in the S.C. Barbecue Association and routinely places high in barbecue contests. 

Mustard could be clearly detected in this hash.

How Different Were the Entries? 

Nineteen teams competed, and every entry had its own distinguishing characteristics, although the ingredients and presentation were limited. The entries varied in color, consistency, taste (some were pungent; some were sweet), texture (from stringy to clumpy), ingredients (from meat items only to all permitted ingredients), and moisture content (some were soupy, some had little moisture). One surprise of the judging activity happened when an entry being shown to a judge was tipped too low and about half a cup of hash “liquid” spilled onto the scoresheet and pants of the judge. How he scored this entry wasn't disclosed!

This hash seemed to have all permitted ingredients.

What Were the Rewards? 

The hash contest had a total of $1,200 in prizes that was divided among the top three places: $500 for first place, $400 for second, and $300 for third. However, more important than the money are the bragging rights for placing among the top three, particularly for the first-place winner. Imagine claiming that you are the state champion for South Carolina, which is known for its barbecue and hash traditions. 

Chicka-Piga-Moo took home $500 for placing first in the hash contest. Photo: Festival of Discovery / Facebook.

What Were the Other Side Contests? 

At the Festival of Discovery, contests were also held for Anything Goes with 29 entries and Desserts with 26 entries. Two Kids Que contests were held; one for kids 10 and under (with five participants) and another for ages 11 and older (three participants). 

The festival conducted two Kids Que contests. Photo: Festival of Discovery / Facebook.

Because teams competing in the hash contest were also permitted to sell their hash to the public during the festival, appreciation for the hash wasn’t limited to only the judges. 

Wrap Up 

The next time you are in South Carolina, find a barbecue restaurant with hash on its menu. See if you don’t agree with the state’s traditions that it belongs on a plate with barbecue.

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Finally, the following video shows hash being made: