Wednesday, August 19, 2020

Pik-n-Pig with a Flightline View

Pik-n-Pig in Carthage, NC, is known locally as the place to find excellent barbecue. It has also gained a growing reputation for being the place to fly into for great smoked pork. Not every barbecue restaurant can brag that it serves pilots and their passengers who simply walk over to it after they have landed.

Summer of Cue

My visit to Pik-n-Pig coincided with the Summer of Cue (#SummerofCue) promotion, launched on social media by the N.C. Pork Council to encourage barbecue fans to support BBQ restaurants during the midst of the coronavirus pandemic. Although I visited Pik-n-Pig before I realized that the council had featured it on their blog, reading their comments later made me feel like I was visiting the restaurant again. (At the time of the post, fans had visited more than 50 N.C. barbecue restaurants.)

The order station outside the restaurant while interior dining is closed.


Family-Run Business 

Pik-n-Pig is truly a family-run business from the pitmaster to the servers and others in the kitchen that draws on four decades of smoking experience by three generations of the Sheppard family. They are well known in the Sandhills area for serving great food in an amazing atmosphere. The restaurant is located by the runway of Gilliam-McDonnell Airfield, which is privately owned but open to the public. (If you plan to fly in, be alert to the 75-foot trees that surround the airport.) Whether it’s time for lunch or dinner, you can always count on a few private planes to circle the airport, do touch-and go’s, or land and join the crowd eating barbecue.

My barbecue plate with two sides and a corn muffin.


Barbecue Restaurant 

To make their pulled pork, Boston butts are slowly smoked for up to 10 hours over hickory coals. The meat is always tender and juicy, and two sauces – one spicy, one sweet – were available. My pulled pork plate came with two sides—red slaw and butter beans (brown!) with corn—and a corn muffin. The choices of sides are extensive. The red slaw is unusual for this region of the state; it’s more traditional in western areas. I always order the plate, although I’m usually tempted by the BBQ sundae—pulled pork layered in a jar with baked beans and coleslaw—which has been served at the N.C. State Fair for years.

Normally served in a mug, the banana pudding is in a takeout container (the dishware of the pandemic).

Although Pik-n-Pig is first and foremost a barbecue restaurant, I’m not the only person who also comes for the banana pudding. It’s the perfect complement to a barbecue meal, whether it’s a sandwich, plate, or sundae. If only every barbecue restaurant would serve banana pudding that’s so good! Maybe it’s another reason that people fly here!

My wife's Pie Tin Nachos with pork and cheese.

With the coronavirus pandemic still not under control in this state, the inside dining area was closed. Not a problem for Pik-n-Pig! The covered patio outside is more than adequate and is the best spot to watch planes land and take off, and extra tables are next to it on the lawn. My wife and I usually eat outside anyway on a weekend to enjoy music by a local group, such as The McKenzie Brothers.

A photo taken in 2016 during quieter moments shows the covered patio with windsock and nearby aircraft hangers.

Watching the windsock near the covered patio flap in the breeze is also entertaining and a reminder than the airport has no control tower, so pilots have to be vigilant not only of the wind direction but any local traffic as well. After two planes had parked while we were eating, their pilots and passengers walked over for lunch. What a way to find a place to eat!

Smoking meat for hours over wood coals earns Pik-n-Pig a coveted sport on the N.C. Historic Barbecue Trail.

I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve eaten at Pik-n-Pig. In recognition of how Pik-n-Pig cooks using the old-fashioned pit method, it has been added to the N.C. Historic Barbecue Trail of the N.C. Barbecue Society. Visiting it is definitely worth a drive (albeit only a short one for me) or a fly-in.

A daily menu board supplements the regular menu.

Friday, July 24, 2020

Grady's BBQ in Dudley, NC

Grady's BBQ in Dudley, N.C.

Because the white concrete block building of Grady’s BBQ in the Dudley community of Wayne County, NC, is such a simple, unpretentious exterior, many people wouldn’t believe how good the food being served on the inside is. It’s a place that could easily be passed by except the many cars parked by the doors at noon indicate that something outstanding is inside.

The wood stack outside tells you that the pitmaster is cooking barbecue the old-fashioned way.

My first visit was during the coronavirus pandemic and only a few days after Grady’s had celebrated its 36th anniversary. It had opened on July 4, 1986. I quickly observed that one of the two doors was exit only; the other one was the only entrance. All food was take-out; nothing was being consumed inside. All the tables and chairs were taped off to prevent anyone from sitting at them except for the one closest to the kitchen where a takeout customer could sit to wait instead of standing. The younger the customer, the less likely he or she was to sit to keep the space available for someone older.

The order line always seems to have several customers waiting.

When I arrived, about four customers were standing in a line in front of the order window that had been partitioned with plexiglass (to create the social distancing important during the pandemic). As I stopped to read a handwritten menu on a wall, another customer came in and joined the line, so I moved behind him as I continued to read. About 10 minutes went by before I could step up to the window and order. It was definitely not fast food, but everyone was patient.

The high sanitation rating over the menu board is a tribute to Mrs. Grady's medical experience.

Behind the window in the kitchen were about five staff members, including the matriarch, Mrs. Gerri (short for Geraldine) Grady, who owns and operates the business with her husband Steve, the pitmaster. She wrote down the orders, took payment, and checked to make sure that they were complete before handing them to customers. Just about every order was for hand-chopped pork barbecue, but turkey, chicken, hamburger steak, and more were also available.

My barbecue dinner with collards, butter beans, and hushpuppies.

Because Grady’s is so famous, I ordered what a typical newcomer orders: barbecue. It was perfect — appropriately sauced in the vinegary eastern North Carolina style. I ordered a barbecue dinner so that I could have two sides and hushpuppies. Nine sides — black-eyed peas, boiled potatoes, coleslaw, potato salad, cabbage, collards (also sold by the pound), butter beans, rice and gravy (yes, that’s a vegetable in eastern N.C.), and green beans — were available. (My choices? Collards and butter beans. So homemade, just like a family reunion!)

Mrs. Grady keeps everything at the order counter moving.

The sides are numerous for such a limited menu. Can you imagine anyone ordering a vegetable plate at a legendary barbecue place? One day I might have to order one (and take the barbecue home). Mrs. Grady has adapted family recipes to serve on a larger scale. As she told Our State magazine, “I try to cook like her [my mother], my grandmother, and my mother-in-law. They were three good cooks.”

My wife's order of fried chicken, cabbage, potato salad, and hushpuppies.

My wife ordered fried chicken with cabbage and potato salad, also with hushpuppies. All were excellent. Because I was saving room for banana pudding, I was disappointed to find out that all had been sold. I settled for a layer chocolate cake, but never has a second choice been so good. I also took home a whole sweet potato pie. Oh, my. It’s one of the best pies I’ve had. Although I’ll return again for the barbecue, banana pudding will be my first selection when I do.

Open only four days a week, Grady's loads oak and hickory coals early on those mornings in its pit built with bricks that form an eight-inch wall. In the afternoons, the pit is quiet.

Grady’s BBQ is a destination for a lot of people — just about everyone is a local but occasionally someone like myself drives for two hours to taste the best of the best. So many have acknowledged the importance of Grady’s in North Carolina’s barbecue history that finally being there makes it seems like I’ve hit a home run. Not even a pandemic can dampen the enthusiasm for being at a barbecue legacy.

Save room for dessert, or take a whole pie home with you.